This page describes a laser engraving setting published for Verre at 2 mm, tested on a Monport CO2 80W fitted with a CO2 80W source (10,600 nm CO2, 80 W). It states the exact machine, source, material, thickness and operation of the test; power, speed and number of passes are shown with a Premium pass.
Why those four facts matter: a engraving setting that works on Verre at 2 mm does not transfer to another thickness, nor to another source. A 10,600 nm CO2 rated 80 W does not deposit the same energy as a stronger module, and the speed has to be adjusted accordingly. Copying a number without checking those four points is the first cause of a ruined part.
Published by LaserSettings (estimation). No other workshop has confirmed it yet: treat it as a starting point, and confirm it from your account if you reproduce it.
No photo comes with this setting yet. If you reproduce it, publish yours from your account: a picture of the result is worth more than a line of numbers.
Recommended routine before running the part: clean the lens, redo the focus, engrave a small test grid on an offcut of the same Verre, then adjust the speed rather than the power. Work with fume extraction and air assist, wear glasses rated for 10,600 nm CO2, and never leave the machine unattended.
Monport offers enclosed CO2 machines (often 40 to 100 W, water-cooled) and fibre markers, priced below the long-established builders. CO2 tubes age: at the same displayed power, a two-year-old machine cuts slower than on day one, which explains many gaps between published settings.
Glass is CO2-laser engraved by frosting the surface: the result is a milky white finish, like sandblasting. It is a demanding material where almost every defect comes from too much energy.
Glass is never laser-cut. When engraving, the principle is to micro-fracture the surface: use the minimum energy that whitens, and nothing more. Too much power produces chips, edges that feel rough, and sometimes a crack right through the piece.
Lower the resolution: around 200 DPI the impacts overlap less and the frosting is more even than at 300 DPI, where glass flakes off in scales.
On a glass or bottle the surface is curved: without a rotary, keep engraving to about 30 mm wide, beyond that focus is lost and contrast collapses.
The most effective technique is to stick wet newspaper, or damp masking tape, over the area to be engraved. The water carries heat away as you go: frosting becomes even and chipping almost disappears.
The paper must be pressed flat with no air bubbles, damp but not dripping. Peel it off under warm water at the end.